Glamour and propriety are played with in varying ratios within the same outfits, in silhouette and textile, colour and detail: a burnt ochre dress in hammered satin is embroidered with sequins and has puffed sleeves and a high neckline. Pretty shirt dresses have strong shoulders, while a structured cloqué gown is softened with a dainty pearl and crystal trim around the sleeves and neckline.
Agar’s capacity to elevate everyday life into something more extraordinary is felt throughout the collection. Crystal and pearl-encrusted embellishments bring decorative sparkle to a pale frost-blue slip dress and duchess satin gowns, and small pearl flower motif buttons give the cuffs of knitted pieces a flash of elegance. There are sculptural garments too: cutwork and embroidered organza gowns with sequins have a shimmering three dimensional quality to them. Dresses and coats constructed entirely from handmade silk roses are like works of art
This juxtaposition heavily informs Erdem’s collection. We find it in the contrasting combination of prim knitwear paired with exuberant sequinned skirts. A demure English woven tweed skirt suit is enlivened with raw edges. Bookish, feather light knits are worn over floral print dresses with long tied scarves and playful asymmetric drop pearl earrings. Cashmere blend sweaters with a subtly incorporated bow detail at the neckline are combined with playful sun ray pleated skirts.